Saturday, February 15, 2014
Tube Review: The Reflektor 6P3S-E power tetrode and the Sovtek 5881
Introduction:
Way back in my college days, I used to own a Harman-Kardon Citation V amplifier, which was supposed to use 7581 output tubes. At the time those were rarer than GEC KT66s, so I ended up running RCA black-plate 6L6GCs which had the misfortune of being on the edge of their max dissipation. A red line would appear right along the plate seam, at the time making me nervous as hell. The only inexpensive tube that could take the heat was the newly introduced Sovtek 5881. It wasn't the best sounding tube but it certainly could take the abuse.
The 1970s era 6P3S-E - except for the shinier getter - looks exactly the Sovtek 5881, but the former has become a sort of budget audiophile darling while the latter is known as a rugged guitar tube. I was curious to see how the 6P3S-E would sound, and at roughly $24 shipped for a pair, I thought it was a perfect tube to try out in the Multi-Valve amplifier which had adjustable fixed bias - needed for dialing in a larger number of popular octal power valves.
Since I also have a pair of newer 5881s on hand, I also decided to compare the two. Physically they appear to be the same tube - rather business-like - but perhaps the cathode chemistry or even the plate metal quality is different enough to make a real world difference. Let's find out!
Note: 6P3S-Es were burned in for approximately fifty hours before listening. The Sovtek 5881s have been used for regulator service and for testing new amplifiers - hours are unknown but definitely more than a hundred.
Listening to the 6P3S-E:
Blue Nile - Hats is a rare vinyl treat with swooping synthesizers and melancholy lyrics. It isn't the most natural sounding album but has great dynamics and a dramatic soundstage. Through the 6P3S-E, there seemed to be a touch of iciness - perhaps an artifact of the recording - but I've heard more richness with other output tubes, notably many NOS units like the Mullard EL34 or the Tung Sol 6550. But still, the 63PS-E has a good transparency which will be loved by many modern music listeners who grew up with solid-state gear.
Next up was the half-speed master of Willie Nelson - Stardust. Detail was very good, though not the best I heard. It was the kind of fake detail caused by excessive treble. Once again I was reminded of a good, but slightly aggressive solid-state amplifier. Perhaps this tube would be a better match with some paper tweeters or a dull front end, but with a horn tweeter and a moving-coil cartridge the sound was rather forward. Bass depth and control, however, was quite good as was transparency. I wish I could combine the 6P3S-E with the darker sound of a Mullard XF2 EL34. That would give a more ideal tube.
I dug out my copy of Steely Dan - Pretzel Logic and gave it a spin. The treble energy didn't seem as hot on this album, but once again I heard a slight sterility to the sound. It wasn't bad - but the 6P3S-E seemed to falsely increase detail by cranking up the treble, adding some glassiness. The sound didn't really breathe at least not with the musicality I expect from the very best of the NOS tubes. I didn't get carried away with the music either, not even the soaring vocals of the song Barrytown.
Listening to the Sovtek 5881:
After some warmup I started with side two of The Grateful Dead - Terrapin Station, which is a very unique "rock opera" type piece. Once again the forward nature of this tube was evident. I'm thinking if I had an A/B switch box I wouldn't be able to tell the difference between this and the 6P3S-E. It had the same tipped up top-end, clean mids and good bass control.
In the right system, Cat Power - Jukebox has a big "you are there" sound. With the 5881, the effect was lessened, losing some of the inner-detail and the lowest, full bass. Again, it was good but the big DEPTH was shortened, making a flatter, less involving soundstage without the shimmer and swirl of the best output tubes. If there were differences between this and the 6P3S-E, they were incredibly minor. Just to be sure, it was time to return to a record I have already listened to.
Once again I gave Willie Nelson - Stardust a listen. Perhaps it was listener fatigue or system break-in, but I would swear the treble was actually tamer than the 6P3S-E. The mids were also a tad richer too. Both tubes, however, were still cut from the same sonic cloth - perhaps the difference between a Mullard XF2 and a XF3: different but not extremely so.
Conclusion:
The 63PS-E or Sovtek 5881 aren't bad tubes, but they aren't great tubes. They certainly aren't very neutral, hewing to a brighter sound than I like. They have a forward "in your face" sort of character that may be a better match for vintage speakers or certain MM cartridges. At least in my system, I wouldn't use them - not while I'm running compression driver/horn tweeters and a moving-coil cartridge. They are, however, recommended for budget audiophiles, but with serious system matching caveats. As always, YMMV.
Review System:
VPI Aries with JMW 10.5i tonearm and SDS Power Supply
Dynavector 10X5
Cardas Cross 1M interconnects
Quicksilver preamplifier with Mullard short-plate 12AX7s, RCA 12FQ7s, Amperex 12AU7
Cardas Quadlink 5C 1M interconnects
Multi-Valve Stereo amplifier
Cardas Hexlink speaker cable
UREI 813A monitor speakers
VTI BL503 equipment rack
Tube Review: The Valve Art 350B pentode
Introduction:
The original Western Electric 350B - which I've only heard in a few rare instances - has become one very expensive output tube. Valve Art, through Shuguang, currently makes a "reproduction" that is extremely affordable and has a nice vintage "G" bulb shape that would look quite good in a pair of Quad II monoblocks or any other vintage amplifier that can handle the extra filament current of the 350B over the more pedestrian 6L6GC.
I purchased a pair of Valve Art 350B from Antique Electronic Supply. Price is less than $40 a pair, which is quite inexpensive compared to the majority of NOS and even new tubes. Construction quality is quite high with welded plates, good looking mica, two vertical support rods, and white ceramic spacers. No, it isn't anything like a 1940s 807, but it looks pretty close - perhaps if you rubbed off the Valve Art logo it could fool some of your more tube savvy friends... or not.
I plugged the 350Bs into my Multi-Valve amplifier which has adjustable fixed bias. I dialed them in at a healthy 60mA, perhaps 50mA would be a safer bet for long life, but at this price I'm willing to give up a little longevity for a few (and I mean a very few) extra watts. After all, I'm not running horn tweeters in a multi-amp system, but a pair of full-range speakers that can take whatever I can dish out. At this bias setting there was no sign or red plating and the tubes have been working perfectly after a good solid 100 hours or more. So much for the myth of poor Chinese tube reliability.
Listening:
The first record up was Neil Young - Live At The Cellar Door. Detail - audience coughs and hall ambiance were all there - perhaps lacking compared to the best NOS I've heard, notably the Philips metal base EL34s and vintage Tung Sol 6550s. However no frequency aberration stuck out and there didn't seem to be any of the "solid state in a bottle" bleaching that is often the hallmark of new production tubes. This recording, however, is not the most dynamic so it was time to move on to something else.
My Japanese pressing of The Police - Synchronicity is an exciting and bouncy album requiring plenty of power to unravel everything that is going on. With the Valve Art 350Bs, I noticed that the bass didn't go as low as the vintage Tung Sol 6550s. The 350B sounded compressed and confused on the big peaks - perhaps hitting the edge of their power envelope in this single-ended amplifier. A more efficient speaker could perhaps ameliorate this issue. I also noticed a touch of dryness - though maybe this is a function of the recording itself.
Pink Floyd - Animals is a perennial favorite of mine - my German pressing is very dynamic with tons of detail. With the Valve Art 350B, I noticed a murkiness to the sound as if a layer of gauze was making the finer detail and attack of the songs. Sure, the music was still there, but I found my mind wandering. The "swirl" - as I call it - was missing; this is the moment when the notes become visual, engrossing the mind with music. Depth also become shorter and the soundstaging less enveloping than normal.
I tried a few other albums - Roxy Music, Dr. John, an Agalloch CD - and found that the quieter cuts fared better. Once the dynamics cranked up, the bass would become plodding and the music unrefined, bringing down the system sound quality down several notches - turning my pride and joy into a sonic mess. Adjusting the current down to 50mA didn't seem to make any difference either.
Conclusion:
I really, really wanted to like these tubes. I mean they look great and I'm usually a champion of Chinese tubes, but - at least with this amplifier - I cannot recommend the Valve Art 350B. Perhaps in push-pull or with a different transformer load, voltage, or current, or even cathode bias they would shine. Or maybe I was asking too much out of them, but the SED 6L6GC in the same circuit sounded much better.
Review System:
VPI Aries with JMW 10.5i tonearm and SDS Power Supply
Dynavector 10X5
Cardas Cross 1M interconnects
Quicksilver preamplifier with Mullard short-plate 12AX7s, RCA 12FQ7s, Amperex 12AU7
Cardas Quadlink 5C 1M interconnects
Multi-Valve Stereo amplifier
Cardas Hexlink speaker cable
UREI 813A monitor speakers
VTI BL503 equipment rack
Monday, November 25, 2013
Project: Mult-Valve: The Universal Pentode Amplifier
Introduction:
It seems like a long time ago, but I remember when the first Sound Practices magazine came out. For many American audio nuts, the idea of a using an ancient triode like the 300B in single-ended mode was a new revelation. Of course this was merely revisiting an old technology, spruced up with some modern twists and a hearty dollop of audio hipsterism. I easily fell into this new movement, making my first ever piece of DIY gear, a 71A linestage using dual-mono mil-spec potted transformers, gas tube regulation, and some vintage oil caps on the output. After that, it was a series of amplifiers, including PP 6B4Gs and single-ended 2A3s. All this on a college student budget. Once I had a real job, I built was my first 300B amplifier using Thorsten Loech's SV83 pentode driver.
But after a while, my interest in this triode movement began to wane. It was a problem of speakers: Low power amplifiers require efficient drivers and my experience with the lower priced offerings, including vintage coaxes and more modern designs, left me unfulfilled. My first experience with audiophile gear included the wonderful Quad ESL-63 electrostat speakers, and nothing I bought seemed to meet that detail, speed, and snap that I remembered so fondly. I did, however, found myself willing to compromise, thoroughly enjoying the UREI 813A loudspeaker, which ideally requires more power than I could get out of a common single-ended triode running at sane voltages.
With the UREIs, the best all-around amplifier I've heard to date are the Eico HF-60s. It's a classic 1950s ultralinear design, but runs the EL34s in heavy Class A. There is a dynamic ease and sense of unlimited power with these classic 60W monoblocks. Of course some modern components, the addition of a choke in the power supply, and a "battery bias" mod on the EF86 really brought these ancient wonders up to a new level. But a close runner up was the 1625 amplifier I built, another Class A wunderkind that sounds much better than one would expect considering the budget build cost. I began to wonder if I could make an amplifier that would make enough power to drive the UREIs, provide class A output, and have the ability to roll in multiple types of output tubes. The concept of Multi-Valve was born!
The Design:
Most single-ended amplifiers use Cathode or self-bias. This is an easy way for the circuit determine the idling current of an output tube. But since I wanted to roll in different sorts of valves, I decided to go with fixed bias. This decision complicated the power supply since an adjustable negative voltage is need to put across the grid of the output tube. This also changes the requirements of the driver tube since output tubes using fixed bias need a smaller grid leak resistor. That meant my favorite pentode driver was out of the question. Instead I went with the 5687 dual triode which is a low mu tube that would work well cascaded.
Instead of Edcor output transformers with their single output tap, I went with potted James 6123HS, which have the outputs for 4, 8, and 16 ohm speakers. They also look really nice. However, for the power transformer, I went with Edcor, but bought plain steel bell covers to match the rest of the metallic look I was going for. Except for the octal sockets, all the small tube sockets are NOS. A motor run cap suitable for 500VDC was selected, along with some small current meters, miniature pots for the bias control, and some Tocos volume controls.
The most difficult part of building a tube amplifier is the metalwork and chassis. Instead of the common wood sides, I wanted something different. Searching through Ebay, I managed to find a nice Chinese unit that included a bottom and top plate, holes drilled in the back for speaker binding posts, an IEC connector, and a pair of RCA jacks. It's about the size of a Dynaco 70, but with the size of the output and power transformers, I knew it was going to be a tight fit. To make the top panel, I did a lot of measuring and made several different versions using the Front Panel Express software.
Testing:Once I had everything wired up - and it was a tight fit getting everyting inside that small chassis - it was time for some testing. I first tested the bias controls, making sure that the maximum voltage was set. I then plugged in all the tubes - GE 5687s, Sovtek 5881WXTs, a GE OA2, and a GE OB2 - except for the Shuguang 5AR4. Leaving the rectifier tube out allowed me to check that I hadn't messed up on the filament wiring. Once that checked out okay, it was time for the smoke test. After I plugged in a pair of cheap test speakers and a running CD player, I had the DMM ready to go with the ground lead already attached to a ground point.
Is there anything more exciting than turning on a brand new tube amplifier? Okay, don't bother to answer that question - of course there is! But I still get a little rush even though I've been at this still hobby for 24 years now. To my surprise there was no smoke or flames shooting out the top. Instead there was a nice purple glow of VR tubes and that warm orange filament color. After some quick voltage measurements, I adjusted the bias upward and music started flowing out of the little 4" woofer of the Pioneer test speakers. Ah, it sounds like magic.
Listening:
After some further measurements and some very minor fixes, it was time for some listening. The Eico HF-60s were unplugged and disconnected from the system. Up went the Multi-Valve amp and on went the Cardas wiring. I replaced the Sovtek 5881s with a pair of vintage Tungsol 6550s which required a bias change. I started with a Schiller CD on the Sony player, adjusting the gain knobs until I found a suitable match with the Quicksilver preamplifier. After I was happy with that, it was time to spin some vinyl. I started with some Tom Waits, checked out some Willie Nelson, and ended up with some Police. Initial impressions was an amplifier that sounded a little lean, but had plenty of detail, very good bass control, and a suprising amount of dynamics for such a relatively low-powered amplifier. There was a real 3-D sound with the vocals projected in front of the speakers. A good beginning...
Of course this amplifier was still incredibly fresh. Except for the tubes, all the parts were brand new. So over the course of the next few nights, I used this amplifier to provide background music as I worked out, played video games, or started to brew another batch of beer. As the hours went on, the lean sound began to recede and was instead replaced by something quite neutral. I also tried different pair of output tubes that I had lying around - Mullard and Shuguang EL34s. Both provided very pleasing results, but the vintage Tungsol 6550s seemed to sound the best.
No More Games!Now it was time for some serious listening. For this, I invited my fellow local audiophile friend over. He has a great stash of quality records and also had some different vintage output tubes to try out. I also replaced the rectifier with a 5AR4 made by Mullard. Here are some notes from this session:
The first pair of output tubes was a pair of vintage Mullard XF2 EL34s. Listening to Neil Young - Live at Massey Hall, the darkness and classic warmth of this venerable pentode was obvious. There was a slight loss of detail, but the overall effect was quite musical. Some of the macro dynamics seemed a touch restrained.
Next up was the Tungsol 6550. This pair was from the early 1960s with the grey plates with three holes. Dynamics really improved here with tight and well-defined bass. There was also a sense of ease to the music, making the amplifier sound much more powerful than the estimated 15Ws. Treble detail and extension wasn't the best I've ever heard, but it was still very good, but perhaps lacking that last bit of shimmer and liveliness. Robert Ludwig's mastering of The Band - s/t album was the best I've ever heard it, managing to find clarity in this darkly recorded album. On the other hand, Donald Fagan - The Nightfly still had speed and the latent fingerprint of a digital recording.
For the next record, a pair of 1950s Dutch Philips EL34s was selected. These metal base tubes are quite expensive these days, but there was some real magic here. Listening to Cat Power - Jukebox was an amazing experience, pulling me into the music in a way that made it seem real and alive; as if I were sitting thirty or forty feet away from the band in a small hall. There was an evenness to the music from the top to the bottom without any part of the frequency spectrum sticking out in an unnatural way. Dimensionality and soundstaging was some of the best I've ever heard. Even more surprising was the controlled but taut bass through the 15" Eminence woofer. Very impressive. These tubes appear to be made for this amplifier.
The following experiment was not much of a success. A fresh pair of early 1950s Tungsol 6AR6s was selected, along with an octal socket adapter. The sound on Steely Dan - Greatest Hits and The Who - Tommy, became very uninvolving and flat. Perhaps some more break-in time was needed or a different bias point. It was time to move on and try something different.
1970s Gold Lion KT77s (with black bases): These sounded much like the Tungsol 6550s with excellent bass control and incredible dynamic range. It was, however, a little richer, hewing somewhere between the dynamic Tungsol 6550 sound and the classic richness of the EL34. Neil Young - Tonight's The Night delivered all the tortured darkness that I expected with a sense of realism that was inviting.
For a more budget choice, I also tried a pair of SED 6L6GCs, one of my favorite modern production tubes. Though there was a slight loss of the last bit of detail, the overall sound was very pleasant with only some slight overlaid grain over the music. The explosive dynamics on Blue Nile - A Walk Across the Rooftops were really a surprise, while the Police - Synchronicity kept the rhythm and pace of the music together in a bouncy and engaging way.
The Scorecard:
Bass: Normally a weakness of tube amps, and even more so for single-ended, the Multi-Valve was a real surprise here. The lowest notes were deep, well-damped, and had excellent control without the slight tubbiness I normally associate with tube amplifiers. This is a testament to the James output transformer and the feedback loop controlling the woofer. Not only was there depth, but detail, whether it was the smack of a tom-tom, or the playfulness of a skilled bass player.
Midrange: Clear, defined, and transparent are the first words that come to mind. The music is served in an even-handed fashion without tube bloat or an overly analytical presentation. The quality here is quite dependent on the output tube used, ranging on the scale from amazing (Tungsol 6550s and Philips EL34s) to a more middling sound (Mullard EL34s or SED 6L6GCs). But at no time, except for the 6AR6s, was I actively disappointed by the music coming out of the speakers.
Treble: This again was dependent on the output tube selected for use, with varying levels of quality. I preferred the Philips EL34s and the Gold Lion KT77s here, while some listeners, depending on the speakers used, may prefer the warmth of the Mullard XF2 or the qualities of the Tungsol 6550s. At its best, the Multi-Valve amplifier treble is perfectly integrated into the midrange, not calling attention to itself, but not lacking in detail or extension.
Soundstaging: Whoah! Images are way beyond the edges of the speaker, making my listening space sound larger than it is. There is also an incredible amount of depth. Vocals are also projected forward in a nice fashion, keeping separate from the rest of the music. This clarity comes from the lack of sonic mud, allowing the listener to "see" deep into the musical performance.
Intangibles: Considering the limited power that single-ended can deliver, one of the biggest revelations was the handling of macrodynamics. Even at lively listening levels the amplifier never failed to deliver the wattage when needed. This, along with the various microdetails and instrument shadings, gave a unique presentation that makes so many other tube and solid-state amplifiers sound cloudy or unfocused. The Multi-Valve isn't stubbornly analytical either, bleaching out warmth or lacking humanity. Instead the presentation is incredibly balanced. An amplifier like this would be a great tool for mastering or component evaluation.
Conclusion:
There really is something special about single-ended designs, whether they are triode, ultralinear, pentode, or even solid-state. It's the Class A power that really matters in the end, along with the uncomplicated driver circuits and simplified power-supply requirements. A pentode, at least with regulated screens and negative feedback, gives a different presentation than, for example, the classic WE91 300B design. Of course listening preferences, speaker selection, and source components will greatly effect the best amplifier to use in a given system, but with mine, the Multi-Valve is perhaps the best I've ever heard. Really. It's also great fun to sample different output tubes and the unexpected differences between them. Highly recommended.
Parts list and Front Panel Express layout available upon request.
Review System:
VPI Aries with JMW 10.5i tonearm and SDS Power Supply
Dynavector 10X5
Cardas Cross 1M interconnects
Quicksilver preamplifier with Mullard short-plate 12AX7s, RCA 12FQ7s, Amperex 12AU7
Cardas Quadlink 5C 1M interconnects
EICO HF-60 monoblocks with Mullard XF2 EL34s & 5AR4s, GEC CV4085s, and GE 6SN7GTAs.
Cardas Hexlink speaker cable
UREI 813A monitor speakers
VTI BL503 equipment rack
Wednesday, September 18, 2013
Refurbishing a vintage Sony TA-3120A solid-state amplifier
The original Sony TA-3120 is quite the ancient (solid-state-wise) piece of gear. As far as I can tell, the original TA-3120 amplifier was released in 1966, the start of the decline of vacuum tube technology. It was this model, along with many others, that was also the beginning of the end for American stereo manufacturers. Thanks to truly portable radios, the Japanese had a leg up on making solid-state gear that didn't blow up and could provide countless hours of trouble-free operation.
(right click to see larger image - or check out the service manual)
Note: this is the 3120 schematic, the 3120A appears to be slightly different.
Note: this is the 3120 schematic, the 3120A appears to be slightly different.
The TA-3120 and the latter TA-3120A features very simple circuitry, looking quite valve-like in operation. A quick look at the schematic reveals a very simple single voltage power supply, a single transistor gain / and single transistor phase-splitter, two pairs of output transistors per channel, and a large capacitor coupling the transistors to the speaker. My own interest in these types of amplifiers are purely historical. Though I believe a good tube or a modern circuit will lay waste to these early units, I also have an interest on hearing just how good these things could potentially sound. Those vintage electrolytic capacitors, especially back then, weren't particularly well-made, not compared to the tightly wound models of today.
These stand-alone "one third" amplifiers seemed to have been rarely used with a preamplifier - instead they were supposed to be mated with integrateds, powering the back channel in early Quad / primitive surround sound systems. Making a decent - for the time - 50 watts per channel this amplifier will have enough moxy to drive most speakers, provided the they don't dip below 4-ohms impedance. The capacitor coupling will also save woofers if the output transistors decided to go south. I also like adjustable gain knobs in back, perfect for matching up with any number of different preamplifiers. With that in mind, along with the handsome chrome shoebox looks and potted power transformer, I decided to buy one for a paltry $129 and see how it sounded.
These stand-alone "one third" amplifiers seemed to have been rarely used with a preamplifier - instead they were supposed to be mated with integrateds, powering the back channel in early Quad / primitive surround sound systems. Making a decent - for the time - 50 watts per channel this amplifier will have enough moxy to drive most speakers, provided the they don't dip below 4-ohms impedance. The capacitor coupling will also save woofers if the output transistors decided to go south. I also like adjustable gain knobs in back, perfect for matching up with any number of different preamplifiers. With that in mind, along with the handsome chrome shoebox looks and potted power transformer, I decided to buy one for a paltry $129 and see how it sounded.
Initial listening results through the UREI 813A speakers were unfortunately short-lived. However, before the problem came to light, I heard an amplifier that sounded pretty good but a tad "confused" with not very good control over imaging and soundstage placement. There was a "blur" to the sound, along with a recessed midrange and a slightly tizzy treble. Bass response was half-decent though definitely not approaching the uber-depth and control of my old Threshold S/500 or even my Eico HF-60 tube amplifiers. But still, I would rate these higher than stock Dynaco ST-80/120s or even many vintage receivers I've heard. I could tell the fine fellows at Sony had put some serious thought into these amplifiers but were hampered by the technology of the time.
A few minutes of listening and the sound suddenly cut off. And then mysteriously it came back. Only to be cut off again. At first I thought some speaker protection relay - as seen in the TA-3120 schematic - was clicking off and on. However, an examination of the 3120A innards showed no such circuit. A quick check of the multimeter showed that the power supply was undulating from 62 to 82Vs roughly every two seconds. As the voltage dropped, so would the sound. This pointed to a potential capacitor problem - a device that stores and releases voltage. To the Digikey site I went - it was time to replace every capacitor on the circuit board. Like the original amplifier, I went with Elna (mostly Silmic) capacitors where possible. I also discovered that the TA-1320A is quite different than the original 3120, with different values and some there not at all. So if you need to do this job, record the capacitors needed from the components on the circuit board, not the schematic.
Yikes! This was a nightmare. Even though Sony had thoughtfully made it easy to pop off the three circuit boards in question, I still opted to keep the multiple leads intact. This left me a few inches between the back of the PCB and the heatsink. The solder traces are also extremely fragile and appear to be made of very thin copper - use caution! When I was done, I had a nice pile of used capacitors and a much more modern looking board.
When I finally finished, I hooked up my Pioneer test speakers and took the output directly from the SACD player. I turned the amplifier on ... and hurrah!... there was music! I let it play and tested this power supply voltage. This time it was a rock steady 86 volts, higher than the initial value. Since I hadn't replaced the main bucket capacitor which I thought was the source of the original problem (and the most expensive fix) I was happy to hear undistorted sound. The Pioneer speakers, however, aren't the highest in fidelity, but still good enough for some initial thoughts and component break-in time.
Hmm... good bass response and a bouncy engaging rhythm. A very pleasant background sound as I help my fellow marines hammer through the defense of Iwo Jima - courtesy of the virtual world of Rising Storm, a Red Orchestra 2 upgrade pack. However, the old saw "all amplifiers sound the same" really does hold true, but only if the speakers in question can't resolve the differences. It was time for a true sonic torture test, the venerable UREI 813A monitors with their compression horn tweeters, a speaker that has broken many an amplifier.
Hooking up the Sony amplifier was easy as pie - the back connectors work great with the mid-sized spades of the Cardas Hexlink speaker wire. Large spades and banana plugs please do not apply.
The first cut was my original U.S. pressing of Tom Waits - Closing Time. This recording is a tad dark and it showed. The upper midrange / lower treble grit I normally associate with solid-state gear was pretty suppressed - you had to really listen for it to hear it. Only a few non-tubed amplifiers truly get rid of it - at least according to my experience. The next recording was the 180g re-issue of Ray Charles - Genius + Sould = Jazz. I was taken aback by the sheer musicality of the sound. I began to feel a tad suspicious, wondering if I was hearing one of the better amplifiers of my life. Seriously. The dynamic swings worked well and the spaciousness of the recording was evident; this sort of depth is something I normally associate with tube amps. Hmmm....
Next up was a first pressing of Donald Fagan - The Nightfly. Ah, now I could hear the limitations of this early digital recording. The treble was noticeably splashy and forward. The very deepest bass was not exactly missing, but not as low as I remember with other, more powerful amplifiers. The separation of the vocals were not as defined as other amplifiers caused by a slight blurring and loss of detail.
Now it was time for something really dynamic - The Classic Records re-issue of The Who's - Tommy and my original pressing of Frank Sinatra - Sinatra At the Sands. With these two recordings, everything was there and the music was still emotional as ever, but the lowest bass registers were just slightly underdamped and lacking - perhaps an effect of the music going through such a large electrolytic output capacitor. The very top could get hard and uncontrolled when listening too loudly, the sign of an amplifier running out of steam - obviously 50Ws can only do so much.
Conclusions? This is a very nice amplifier, especially with a bevy of new Elna capacitor replacements. Perhaps it is the simple circuitry or the effects of the (fairly) non-linear output capacitor, but the Sony TA-3120A lacks much of the grit and harshness I associated with solid-state gear. Sure I've heard better - notably a large number of tube amplifiers, but if I didn't know any better, I could really live with this piece of vintage amplifier. What it lacks is the ultimate finesse of the best gear I've heard - detail retrieval, bass control, and soundstage depth. However, it does - much like the B&K ST-140 but not quite as warm - convey the music in an enjoyable way. Of course much of this may come from my VPI table and Quicksilver preamplifier; the flaws of the Sony diminished by the strength of the other audio gear. Nonetheless, recommended for vintage junkies who want to try something different.
Review System:
VPI Aries with JMW 10.5i tonearm and SDS Power SupplyDynavector 10X5
Cardas Cross 1M interconnects
Quicksilver preamplifier with Mullard short-plate 12AX7s, RCA 12FQ7s, Amperex 12AU7s
Cardas Quadlink 5C 1M interconnects
EICO HF-60 monoblocks with Mullard XF2 EL34s & 5AR4s, GEC CV4085s, and GE 6SN7GTAs.Cardas Hexlink speaker cable
UREI 813A monitor speakers
VTI BL503 equipment rack
Tuesday, September 10, 2013
New Project: Universal Single-Ended Pentode Amplifier
I've recently built two budget orientated single-ended amplifiers, one using the WWII-era 1625, and the other using the 6CB5A connected as triode. Both were built to a price point - Edcor output transformers and parts sourced from Mouser. The sonic results for these unusual designs were quite gratifying, considering the sub-$700 price range.
Sonically, I actually preferred the sound of the 1625 amplifier which was used as a pentode with screen regulation. It had a pleasant forward sound compared to your average triode, and also seemed to develop much more power than expected, along with greater speaker control with the use of (yikes!) negative feedback. This project made me rethink an older amplifier I built using the EL156 output tube connected in Ultralinear. I began to wonder how a true pentode assault on the "state of the art" would sound.
With that in mind, I came up with the following concepts to guide me through the design process:
- Ability to use octal socket output tubes: 6550, EL34, 6L6GC, KT66, etc
- Fixed Bias - allowing the maximum range of bias
- Plug-in Plate cap: for the weird tubes
- Pentode operation - possibly with a triode switch
- Tube rectification using damper diodes
- Screen regulation using gas tube shunt regulation
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